This artifact group is divided into three classes: (1) sewing implements for the construction and repair of clothing articles; (2) clothing fasteners; and (3) material resources used for clothing construction. Artifacts related to this functional group appear frequently on trade lists and were popular commodities among the Indians throughout the Historic period. France (1985) has also discussed the prevalence on trade lists of yard goods and ready-made clothing, which sometimes comprised nearly half of the total inventories. Since textiles are not often preserved archaeologically, their importance as trade items can easily be underestimated.
Sewing Implements
Sewing implements from the Fredricks site include two iron awls, one iron pin, five pairs of steel scissors, two scissor fragments, and two brass thimbles. The iron awl from Burial 3 was found in association with a bundle of other artifacts. Following Stone's (1974:155) criteria for identification of awls, this specimen is pointed on one end, has the remains of a wooden handle on the other end, and appears to have a squarish shank when viewed in cross-section. Another awl with a bone handle was associated with Burial 11. Awls were popular leather working tools and appear on trade lists of the period (France 1985). Often, iron nails were modified to be used for the same purposes. One other small sewing implement--a complete straight pin with a coiled head--was found in the fill dirt of Feature 28.
Five pairs of scissors were recovered from burial contexts at the Fredricks site. All appear to be of the same style, with wide blades, equal-sized oval-shaped eyes, and a central rivet well below the handle branches. The blade tips and eye loops of these specimens were not well preserved. Two pairs of scissors were found "bundled" with other artifacts in both Burial 1 (first pair, second pair) and Burial 2 (first pair, second pair). The pair of scissors in Burial 6 did not appear to be in a bundle. The individuals in Burials 1, 3, and 6 all were adult males, which may suggest sex or status indicators for these scissors. A pair of broken scissors also was found in Feature 53 and a scissor handle fragment was found in the plowzone. Scissors appear frequently on early trade inventories (France 1985). Considering the quantities of yard goods and clothing traded to the Indians, the presence of scissors as clothing construction implements is not surprising. Brain (1979:274), in his discussion of acculturation by technological innovation, has placed a high "value" on scissors as tools because they have no native counterpart and represent a "new technique of use."
One brass thimble was recovered from the floor of Feature 49, interpreted as a probable burial pit, and another thimble was found in the plowzone. The plowzone specimen was 15 mm in diameter and had a textured head. The other specimen had a hole in the top, perhaps for use as an ornament.
Clothing Fasteners
Forty-five of the artifacts associated with clothing (excluding small glass beads) were fasteners. These consisted of 26 buttons, 17 buckle frames, and two buckle tines. Nineteen of the buttons were recovered from Burial 1. Twelve were black glass buttons with iron wire eyelets (some missing) and seven were solid cast pewter buttons. The black glass buttons (not typed by South) measure 11.6 mm to 14 mm in diameter. Ten of the black glass buttons were found in the neck area of Burial 1 which suggests three possible functions: (1) they were strung on a necklace like beads; (2) they were sewn onto a garment for decoration; or (3) they were used as fasteners on a European trade garment. The other two black glass buttons were found in the fill of Burial 1. The seven solid cast pewter buttons from Burial 1 measure 12 mm in diameter and have the dome and eyelet cast as one piece. They were found in association with a "bundle" of artifacts interred with Burial 1, and were possibly used as ornamentation sewn to the outside of this bundle. All of the cast pewter buttons appear to have a tri-part floral motif on the "face" or dome of the button. A similar decorative motif has been found on slightly larger buttons (14 to 16 mm diameter) from the Fort Michilimackinac site and have been dated by Stone (1974:46-48) to the early 1700s. Cast pewter buttons, most of which date to the 1720s, have also been recovered at many Overhill Cherokee sites in Tennessee (Carnes 1983:192).
Three hollow-cast pewter buttons were found in Burial 2. Noël Hume (1969:89) suggests that hollow-cast buttons, of either white metal (pewter) or brass, were common during the early eighteenth century. A floral motif is slightly visible on these three specimens, which are more eroded than the solid cast pewter buttons previously described. These buttons were also associated with a "bundle" of other artifacts and may have been used, along with numerous glass beads, to decorate a bag.
Four additional brass buttons were found in the plowzone and appear to postdate the Occaneechi occupation at the site.
Nine of the 17 buckle frames found were associated with Burial 11. These cast pewter frames were found in the head area, obviously adorning some type of head band. They are circular, approximately one inch in diameter, and have a leaded (embossed) decoration on one side. No tangs were found with these frames, suggesting they were either sewn or woven onto the head band.
A complete brass buckle was recovered from Burial 3 and two similar buckles (first, second) were associated with Burial 8. These buckles are of standard brass construction and have D-shaped frames. The two buckles from Burial 8 have the remnants of leather adhering to the metal, indicating that they were belt or strap fasteners. Fragments of similar brass buckles also were recovered from Feature 45 (n=3) and the plowzone (n=2). Finally, two iron buckle tines were recovered from Feature 28 and the plowzone.
Material Resources
Clothing materials used by the Occaneechi are represented only by seven pieces of leather or buckskin that were preserved by being in contact with two copper wire bracelets found on the left arm of Burial 6, and by three pieces of a coarse-woven fabric that was preserved by being in contact with a pair of scissors in Burial 3. Although the fiber of this fabric could not be positively identified, the weave appears to be a simple one-over and one-under pattern, and the texture resembles a coarse canvas or duck type of cloth. It is suggested that this cloth, found in association with a "bundle" of artifacts, represents the remains of a bag or tote sack, rather than an article of clothing.
